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St Cleer
Like nearby Minions, this parish on the southern slopes of Bodmin Moor was
overwhelmed, and transformed, by a copper-mining boom in the mid 19th century.
A K Hamilton Jenkin wrote: ‘On Saturday nights after pay day, the
populous villages of Caradon Town, Pensilva, Minions and Crows Nest were
crowded with men, and resembled in character the mining camps of Colorado
and the Far West.’ There are older historical stories to be told
here too; the parish contains the impressive Neolithic chamber tomb of
Trethevy Quoit and the decorated and inscribed King Doniert’s Stone,
which was probably erected by Dumgarth, the last Cornish king to be recorded
in what used to be called the ‘Dark Ages’, who drowned in AD875.
In the village itself is St Cleer holy well, in a beautiful 15th century
building; there used to be a total immersion (or ‘bowssening’)
pool here which was used for the attempted cure of the insane.
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St Columb Major (Hotels in St Columb Click Here)
This is an attractive town with some interesting old buildings, none more
so than the largely 14th century parish church. This unusually big, grand
building, which includes the tombs of the Arundells of Lanherne in the
south chancel aisle, was, Charles Henderson believed, ‘among the
finest churches in Cornwall’. Between St Columb and the sea is the
beautiful, wooded Vale of Lanherne, where the old Arundell house, in the
enchanting village of St Mawgan, is now a Carmelite convent. St Columb
is famous for its boisterous Shrove Tuesday celebration of ‘hurling’ (an
ancient game once common in Cornwall), where the teams of Town and Country
attempt to hurl a silver-coated applewood ball into each other’s ‘goals’,
which are a mile apart at either end of the town.
Bell Rock Hotel - St. Columb - 01720 422575
M Curnow - St. Columb - 01637 881140
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St Germans
The village of St Germans is on the River Tiddy, part of the beautiful estuary
of the Lynher which joins the Tamar just downriver from Saltash. The glory
of the village is its magnificent Norman church, set in a hollow with two
towers and a superb doorway as its west front. This might seem an incongruous
setting for such a huge and ancient church, but the parish is still the
largest in Cornwall and this church’s predecessor was Cornwall’s
cathedral from AD926. Down on the river, St Germans Quay was busy in the
last century with cargoes of minerals, coal, timber and limestone, and
a vigorous trade in roadstone continued until the last war.
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St Ives (Hotels in St Ives Click Here)
No wonder people come flocking to St Ives in the summer. It has everything
that a seaside resort could wish for: good beaches, views across the bay,
a picturesque harbour town huddling in a glorious position, a branch line
railway journey from St Erth and still something of a fishing industry,
to save it from becoming the victim of its charms. Above all, it has art.
Turner, Whistler and Sickert were amongst the earliest artists to arrive
here, then in 1928 the local primitive artist Alfred Wallis was discovered
by Ben Nicholson and Christopher Wood. Nicholson, Barbara Hepworth and
Naum Gabo settled in St Ives in 1939, and after the war there emerged a
younger generation including Peter Lanyon, Roger Hilton and Patrick Heron.
This strong and vital artistic tradition, particularly in the field of
the abstract avant-garde, led to the siting of the new Tate Gallery here
in 1993. The award-winning building is a triumph and the gallery has become
one of Cornwall’s major attractions, introducing modern art to an
entirely new audience. The Barbara Hepworth Museum is fascinating and includes
a garden featuring many of her sculptures, whilst the Penwith gallery exhibits
the work of many local artists at work today.
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St Just in Penwith
This solid, handsome granite town, exposed on the treeless heights just inland
from Cape Cornwall, is the most westerly in Cornwall. It has the feel of
a place on the edge and of the mining town that it was, with its rows of
cottages and surprising number of pubs. The deep mining of tin and copper
on the coast here in the 19th century was responsible for the growth of
St Just from a small churchtown, but tin-streaming in the valleys of Penwith
had been going on since the very earliest times. Across the square is the
Plain an Gwarry, a grassy arena where mediaeval Cornish miracle plays were
performed, some of them lasting for up to three days.
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Click here for Cornish Towns, here for Myths and Legends and here for Cornish History.
Coming soon, the Cornish Accommodation Directory......
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